There is no denying that a lot of people looking at a new mountain bike, will be looking at a new e-mountain bike (eMTB). And that’s with good reason. The past decade has seen a boom in eMTB technology, from the motors, batteries, interfaces and software all the way through to the design of the bikes, components to suit how eMTBs are ridden, and the range of options on the market.
And that makes the decision a little more involved than just, ‘I think I’ll get an eMTB’. You will have several decisions to make; based on what type of trails you will be riding, the performance you’re after, where service centres are and of course – how much you want to spend. Our biggest word of advice – make sure you buy an eMTB that meets Australian standards. Australia adheres to the EN15194 safety and performance standard. This means bikes have pedal assist to 25km/h, and it typically keeps a few important elements in check like smart charging and the like, so you know your new eMTB is a tool for fun, and not a liability. New Zealand and North America have a 32km/h pedal-assist limit, however using a bike with that limit in Australia will leave you in a lot of trouble if you’re involved in any accident on a shared path, trail or when riding to the dirt.
While EN15194 is the legislated standard, many other eMTBs are imported and sold in Australia, but typically if they don’t meet this standard, they are only to be used on private property. If you’re not sure – ask the shop staff to verify that the bike meets Australian standards. Currently, the onus is on the user, not the importer or business selling the bike.
What trails are you riding?
You can get eMTB hardtails with 100-120mm of fork travel, or bikes that are just about self-shuttling downhill bikes. It is important to match the bike to the riding you’ll be doing the most. And while that needs to consider the descending trails you will ride; it also needs to include the climbing you will do. If you’re buying an eMTB, that means you will be spending a lot of time climbing. It may not be a popular opinion, but it’s fact.
Where this comes into play is understanding the mix of trails you will ride. If you ride the steepest, jankiest downhill trails that have a service road or fire trail to access them, you really can go for a super long travel eMTB to get the most out of the descents. If your trail network has a mix of trails with amazing singletrack climbs or trails that ebb and flow with climbs and descents, you want to look for a lighter, more agile eMTB that will be fun to ride on the trails. You need something that will respond to your input, and this covers the pedal-assist system as well as the geometry and suspension.
If you look across many of the bikes available, you will find that eMTBs with a 150mm travel fork and 140mm travel for the frame are very common. And that is with good reason – they suit a wide range of riding. If you like riding the hardest trails with very committing lines, then opt for something burlier.
The performance game
In part, the performance of an eMTB is a numbers game. But details matter. You will see a range of numbers used, from torque (Nm) to peak power and of course Watt hours (Wh). Refer to the glossary for the details, but for mountain biking, where you want ride great singletrack up and down, high torque counts – it just isn’t everything.
Most full-power eMTB systems have 80-90Nm of torque. This is what you’ll find for most motors from Shimano, Bosch, Yamaha, Brose and Specialized. Rocky Mountain’s Powerplay eMTBs use a Dyname motor that puts out a whopping 108Nm, while the new Amflow DJI Avinox motor has 105Nm of torque, with 120Nm in Boost! There are also mid-power eMTBs, such as the Orbea Rise, Specialized Levo SL, Pivot Shuttle SL, Trek Fuel EX-e and more. These bikes use motors with lower torque, from 30-65Nm.
While it would be easy to think that more is better, more torque does require more energy, and typically a larger and heavier motor. The energy comes from the battery, so you need a larger battery (higher Watt hours) which is also heavier. The result is many mid-power eMTBs will weight around 17-20kg, whereas full power eMTBs can sit around 22-26kg. Depending how you want the bike to ride and perform on the trails, those differences count.
Another important metric is peak power. To meet the EN15194 standard, eMTB systems need to have a continuous power of 250W for the life of the battery. However, peak power may be anywhere from 300W to a whopping 850W. Peak power, like torque, is useful for surges on technical climbs. It doesn’t mean much for pedalling up a fire trail or road, but on step ups, pinch climbs and the like, peak power is important.
A few bikes are starting to blur the lines. Merida’s latest eOne-Sixty has a full-power system with a 600Wh battery and e-enduro parts list that slides in at about 20kg. And the Amflow PL is winning praise around the world for the low weight (under 20kg), great price and impressive full-power output. The new lightweight Bosch Performance SX system has also received plenty of kudos, with 55Nm of torque matched to a high 600W peak power and an efficient 400Wh battery. This system is in bikes from Canyon, Cube, Norco and many more – especially trail eMTBs that have 130-150mm of travel, and typically weighing under 20kg.
Your eMTB, your way
Tuning counts, and just about every modern eMTB system has an app to handle firmware updates for your eMTB system along with a bunch of unique features. Some apps have ride and even fitness tracking, and the Bosch Flow app even lets your lock your eMTB – complete with the optional car alarm sound.
What’s most important is how the apps let you customise the modes of your eMTBs. Most eMTBs will have modes that are nominally Eco, Trail/Tour, Boost/Turbo or something like that. When you look at the specifics, each mode will dictate a limit on torque and probably the power assistance, along with how reactive it might be. At the extremes, an Eco setting might limit the bike to half the torque and maybe half the power – all the right ingredients for getting more range out of your eMTB. A Boost or Turbo setting will have all the torque, all the power, just about all the time when putting pressure on the pedals!
As a rule, most eMTB system designers know more than you or I about creating the best settings for their systems. However, if you want to twiddle with the settings to add more oomph to a mid-power mode or dial back Turbo so you don’t break traction – you can. The most important step here is looking at what each mode on your system does (and what it doesn’t) so you can understand your eMTB system a little bit better, to get the most out of it. Most systems have a great dynamic mode, typically one short of Boost/Turbo that reacts to different pedal input but helps conserve battery power when you’re just cruising. These settings really are your set and forget choice.
TLC for your eMTB
Like any bike, proper maintenance goes a long way. Given an eMTB might weigh 10kg more than a regular bike – and it has a bunch more power going through it – you can expect to go through more rear tyres, brake pads, cassettes, chains, chain rings and even rotors. Most eMTBs will come equipped for that, with groupsets designed for higher loads, bigger brakes, and even harder compound tyres for better wear.
So, when it comes to maintenance, all these areas should be looked at closely at regular intervals. With a heavier bike, pay attention to checking your tyre and shock pressure regularly to avoid damage. And while any bike rider is best served with a clean drivetrain, a clean drivetrain on an eMTB will pay off with better wear rates. Use a heavier chain lube that deals better with the higher load from the electric motor for better shifting and better drivetrain life.
And of course – how do you look after your battery? Lithium batteries don’t like overheating, so there are a few things to keep in mind. If you’re travelling to the trails on a long trip, remove your battery so it’s not sitting in a bike rack in full sun all day. But don’t leave it in a hot car when you’re at a lunch stop either. Modern eMTBs will come with smart chargers, but don’t keep a charger plugged in if the battery is charged – and don’t leave your battery sitting depleted either.
Few parts of your bike enjoy a direct blast with a pressure washer; keep cleaning to a soft wash – an air compressor is a handy way to dry off moving parts of your bike after a clean. So doing any connections with the air gun is a great idea – but your drivetrain and brakes will love it as well!
How do I choose?
Once you have considered the type of riding you want to do and the best fit for a system, you’re still stuck on budget and what actual bike to choose. There’s no way around it; an eMTB will cost more than the non-e equivalent. Given the investment in a good eMTB is high, a lot of stores will have some sort of bike you can demo, at least around the block. Don’t expect this to be the same model you’re after, but they may have something similar.
Demo bikes are an expensive option for an importer or small business – and it may end up being a staff member’s bike – so be courteous. Read a wide range of reviews but do pay attention to where the reviews are coming from. If an ex-World Cup racer is critiquing how well a trail eMTB handles big drops into rock gardens, you may need to question how valid that is for your use if you just want to ride your local trail network more comfortably.
If in doubt, buy from the store closest to you with the staff who you trust the most. Those people are your front line for any assistance in the long run.
Glossary of eMTB terms
- Watts – the measure of power output. In eMTBs, it typically refers to the motor’s peak or continuous power.
- Watt hours (Wh) – the measure of battery capacity. A higher number means longer potential ride times.
- Torque – the rotational force of the motor, measured in Newton metres (Nm). More torque means stronger pedal assistance, especially on steep climbs.
- Power – the overall output of the motor, measured in watts. High power can mean more assistance but also faster battery drain.
- Continuous power – the sustained output a motor can provide over time, ensuring efficiency and longevity without overheating.
