Dappled clouds reflect on the surface of Lake Neptune as Lake Pedder bathes in sunshine in the distance. One of the distinguishing features of this walk is its series of 30 glacial tarns, many of which are flanked by towering cliffs. These cirques – basins excavated by glaciers during several ice ages over the last two million years – punctuate the landscape throughout the range.

The western end of the ranges looms under mottled skies. This end of the range is most frequently walked because it has the most dramatic scenery; groups that don’t do the full traverse will walk for three or four days from here and leave the range at Mt Scorpio. Those who attempt the full traverse are usually walking for seven to 11 days, depending on fitness and weather. At the end of this buttongrass plain, heading in the opposite direction from the walker in shot, the ranges rear up and it’s a steep 700m ascent up Moraine A to the start of the traverse.

After two days of mist, the sun appears like an eerie orb above a gnarled tree. Walking in the Western Arthurs is a lottery; some walkers trudge along in days of endless mist while others come home with a suntan. Antarctic weather fronts perpetuated by sou‘ westerly winds berate the range year round; it’s not uncommon to get midsummer snowstorms. Shortly after this photo was taken, the cloud lifted as quickly as it had set in and we were treated to a sun-drenched afternoon.

The view from every ridge crest in the Western Arthurs seems like a portal into a prehistoric world. This part of the trail is just after Mt Hayes. From here, the path descends steeply into a gully before undulating towards the tallest mountain in shot, the distant Procyon Peak.

After a night at the idyllic campsite beside Lake Cygnus (to the right of the small beach), the track winds gradually up a rocky path and is bordered on one side by a sheer cliff-face. On the other is the sprawling vista of Lake Cygnus – a constant chaperone along the ridge that leads to Mt Hayes. A 600m detour leads to its summit from which you can digest the upcoming path.

Richea alpina is a low-growing alpine plant which is sometimes – but rarely – found in subalpine environments. This one was growing on the summit of the Phoenix, a ridge just before West Portal. Many Tasmanian alpine plants are endemic and have evolved from precursors that inhabited the ancient supercontinent of Gondwana. Due to the poorly drained organic peat in which they grow, flora like this is particularly sensitive to trampling.

Early evening mist smothers Promontory Lake, rendering dead trees as spectral fingers in the twilight. This spot, just off the main walking track at the south-eastern end of the lake, is a particularly good vantage point because if the mist clears then Mt Scorpio becomes visible through a gap in the rock. It is also a good place to watch mist drift to the end of the range and evaporate over the buttongrass plains.

The look of a man preparing to be reborn. Above Stephen is a narrow chute with two tight openings through which he has to squeeze, along with his heavy pack. The pack haul to the summit of Mt Pegasus is a clunky affair and there are some pretty big gaps between the boulders once you’ve squeezed through the second opening. Putting your backpack back on is tricky here, but more preferable than lugging it all the way to the top. Mt Pegasus was one summit we were especially glad to reach.

Dawn light colours wind-sculpted alpine foliage on Mt Hayes, part of the Western Arthurs.

Mist rolls in above Lake Venus from a vantage point atop the boulder strewn slopes of Mt Canopus. We climbed this mountain on a rest day; it is not part of the traverse and provides a pleasant (and relatively easy) half-day walk from Promontory Lake. From the top of Canopus, you can trace the next day’s route along Centaurus Ridge and through the Crags of Andromeda. West Portal – the highest peak in the Western Arthurs at 1184m – is also visible from Canopus.

There are few footsteps in the Beggary Bumps (and along the entire range for that matter) that don’t require the utmost attention. Stephen uses any protruding flora he can grab onto to ease himself down the mossy banks of a water-eroded gully.

Prickly Richea scoparia plants are prevalent across the range. Wearing gaiters is essential to protect your lower legs from being ripped to shreds. This shrub branches mostly from the base and can grow as high as two metres. Hikers traversing the ranges in spring will see the shrub in bloom with red, pink or yellow flowers – that’s if the wallabies haven’t eaten them first.

Reflections on the shore of Lake Rosanne. A small campsite fringes this lake; there are four rough sites as well as limited space on the shore itself – although be mindful of gusting winds which can sometimes cause the shore to flood. Lake Rosanne marks the end of the traverse and is the last campsite on the range.

Horizontal scrub inches its way across a moor at the western tip of the ranges. Nearly all the flora on this exposed section has been contorted by south-westerly gusts that barrel in from the south coast; everything floral faces Lake Pedder which provides a scenic backdrop. This picture was taken just after finishing the 700m ascent of Moraine A.

Late afternoon sunshine splashes a band of gold over the ranges. Below, a boggy plain offers an alternative campsite to the one at Promontory Lake, which is less than a kilometre away. Lake Venus is just out of shot to the right; a boulder hop is necessary to reach its shores and replenish water supplies. Also visible is Mt Canopus (second peak from the left) and the Crags of Andromeda (behind the shaded peak).

Stephen Haley surveys the entire range. If you drive past the turn-off to Scotts Peak Dam car park and continue along the gravel road, you’ll come to this viewpoint which gives an excellent perspective of the entire hike. In this shot, the range runs from west (far left) to east.

Stephen Haley perches atop a rocky knoll for lunch above Lake Ganymede. We had a 360-degree panorama from here which made our food taste even better. This spot is in the midst of the Beggary Bumps, just after the place where I was lashed in the face with a branch. Needless to say, I ate lunch a little gingerly that day.