One person who loves the waterfalls in the Kimberley region, which also features stunning escarpments, fast-flowing rivers, sandy beaches and endless seas, is Coral Expedition’s Guest Lecturer, Goyma Gondarra, a Golumala man from the Yolngu people of Arnhem Land.
Goyma shares with Australian Geographic his experience, insights and knowledge of six Kimberley waterfalls, including two decidedly non-traditional waterfalls (Curious? Read on!).
Oomari / King George Falls
Oomari is the local Indigenous name for King George Falls, a classic waterfall that plunges more than 80m down vertical sandstone cliffs. As a bonus, it’s a twin waterfall, with two distinct falls (and extra smaller streams when water levels are high). Visiting these spectacular falls is a highlight of a Kimberley visit for many, including for Goyma.
“I’d seen King George Falls on television,” Goyma says. “But on my first trip to the Kimberley, I got to see it with my own eyes, and it was a really amazing experience.”
Goyma encourages visitors to take their time appreciating Western Australia’s highest waterfall. “Instead of rushing to take a photo or selfie, I suggest putting your camera aside and just taking it all in,” he says. “Feel and hear the might of the waterfall in silence.”
Goyma loves Oomari, no matter the weather. “Heavy rain brings so much water into the falls that it creates a huge amount of foam, making the falls incredibly mighty,” he says.
Oomari is the place where Goyma introduces visitors to the Rainbow Serpent Dreamtime story that links several Kimberley waterfalls. “There’s a great story about the meeting of the two serpents who created these twin falls,” he says.
Maamboolbadda / King Cascade
Located on the steep-sided Prince Regent River, King Cascade represents another classic type of waterfall – one characterised by cascades of water falling in a staggered way down layers of terraced escarpment. It’s another very special place for Goyma.
“I ask everyone to bring an empty bottle so they can fill up with the clear water, which is delicious,” he says.
Another way to enjoy the water here is with a ‘Cascade Shower’. This is when Coral’s Xplorer boats park up-close to the falls, allowing keen visitors to step onto the platform and get wet! “The water is very cold, so a Cascade Shower really cools everyone down,” Goyma says.
Punamii-Uunpuu / Mitchell Falls
Mitchell Falls allows keen visitors to go beyond a shower and take a dip in the water. Accessible via an optional helicopter flight, this area features a series of tiered rock pools joined by mini waterfalls.
“You not only get to see the falls from the air, but you can land, walk around and have the opportunity to have a swim,” says Goyma.
Mitchell Falls is another place linked via the Rainbow Serpent Dreamtime story. “After creating Oomari, this is where the serpent rested,” Goyma explains.
Ruby Falls
Like all the waterfalls of the Kimberley, Ruby Falls varies enormously with the season and the day’s tides. But, in general, it’s a more gentle waterfall than others in the region. “Ruby Falls are very beautiful,” Goyma says. “You can swim at the top, because Eric the crocodile is sometimes swimming at the bottom.”
Goyma notes that not all visitors are up for the climb to the top of the falls. “You need to have some strength,” he says. “But everyone else can cruise around the mangroves and see the friendly resident rock monitors, who are also called Eric!”
Yowjab / Montgomery Reef
This is where we get into the non-traditional waterfalls. For starters, Yowjab is in the sea rather than on the land. The other unusual element of this waterfall is that the water flows over a reef rather than rocks. Twice a day, the mammoth tides – sometimes up to 11m high – rush over and reveal a massive reef that covers hundreds of square kilometres.
“It’s a spectacular experience,” says Goyma. “Not only do you get to see the power of the water and the rock pools that become exposed, but there’s also an abundance of marine and bird life.”
Goyma describes seeing turtles, fishes and dugongs. “This area was a special food resource for the local Indigenous people,” he says. “At low tide you see a lot of bird life, especially on the edge, waiting for a little fish to come up from the reef!”
Garaanngaddim / Horizontal Falls
Another horizontal rather than vertical force of water, Garaanngaddim is located where the sea meets the land. These waterfalls are created by the ocean being sucked through the narrow river entrance between two headlands.
Goyma describes two equally fabulous ways to experience these falls-with-a-difference. “When the water is rushing with the moving tide, you get the thrill of experiencing the full force of the current as it comes through,” he says. “Lots of people say this is an experience of a lifetime.”
The other way to experience Garaanngaddim is when the tide is at its slack point. “This is when you can feel the falls just like how it was when the old people went through,” says Goyma. “Going through at strong tide awakens you physically and going through at slack tide awakens you spiritually,” he shares.
Exploring the Kimberley waterfalls with Coral
Goyma loves Coral Expeditions’ approach to exploring the waterfalls of the Kimberley. “I love sharing my knowledge of native plants and animals,” he says. “And I love learning from other expert guests, like local Aboriginal Rangers and geologists who see the Kimberley [as] being like a playground for lovers of rocks!”
Goyma also loves how Coral makes use of both the Xplorer tender boats and the smaller, zippier Zodiacs to explore the different waterfalls in ways that are ideal for each fall’s unique beauty and power.
In partnership with Coral Expeditions
